The simple mussels ($10) at The Lansdowne, a new Irish pub on Lansdowne Street behind Fenway Park [map], are the best mussels I’ve eaten in ages. They’re tossed onto a hot cast-iron skillet where they sear and steam in their own juices, seasoned only with olive oil and coarse salt.

Smoky, succulent and unapologetically simple, the mussels are a delicious surprise for patrons who wouldn’t expect cuisine of this quality from a restaurant of this size at this location. And at these prices.